Cold Weather Adaptation

The next couple of weeks are predicted to be too cold for epoxy to set in my unheated shop.  I am into a series of little dabs here and there, and it would be so handy to keep working a few hours at a time.

Here is my solution.

Today, I took the epoxy from the nice, warm house, out to the shop where I mixed up a few batches with lots of structural filler.  I filled the gaps between the wire stitches on the outside of the hull.

I bent all the wire stitches to stand straight up.

Then I parked a heater beneath the boat.

And covered everything with a tarp!

I have a thermometer under the boat and will check the temperature in a few hours.  I love doing these projects that encourage creative thinking.

Humphrey

Saturday, Alan came over for a look at the final hull shape.  The stitching was done, cinching everything into shape.  We discussed the built-in buoyancy and agreed that the two level tanks will be a great way to go, providing copious amounts of emergency floatation as well as comfortable seating, bow and stern.

Later that day, I went back out to the shop and mixed up epoxy with structural filler.  Filled in the spaces between the stitches.  I work Sundays, so that would give the epoxy time to set before I was free again.

Yesterday afternoon, my son came by and helped me roll the hull over, so I could work on the exterior.  His wonderful artist/engineer's eye noticed some bulges in the bottom panel!  I was aghast!  At a loss for a way to correct them.  Logan pointed out that some of the panels may be slightly too wide.  Of course.  Brilliant.  Just run the saw down the joints to cut back the panels.

This morning, I returned to the shop.  Pulled a few stitches and cut through the epoxy fillers with the jig saw.  Took a few cuts to remove enough material, but I am so relieved to see that he was right!  

I expect, when I tell Logan he saw, then solved the problem in the blink of an eye, that he will react much like Sheldon on Big Bang Theory.  "Of course."

I never took any pictures of the hull before the corrections, but I am more than pleased to post a few 'afters'

I just published this entry and reread the title.  I thought I would explain it, but no.  If you don't get it. let me know in the comments.

Merry Christmas,  Gerry

Panel Stitching is Complete

The next stages in the building are complete!

I hung some slings from the rafters in my shop and used them to hold the bilge panels in place.  I then slid the bottom panel into place and began attaching the panels to the transom and to each other.

Not much to tell here.  Shall let the photos show what I have done.

I have also been investigating buoyancy for the boat as the design doesn't call for any.

I wrote a note to Jim Michalak for advice and he has yet to answer.  I visited small boat building sites and discovered it is not difficult to design my own.  So, here is what I have calculated.  Roughly.

There are bulkheads four feet from each end of the boat.  If I close off both of them, from the bottom of the boat to the transom, that would provide an astounding 704lbs of reserve buoyancy to the boat!

If I were to make the front and the rear buoyancy compartments only platforms that go from the floor of the boat to the chine, that would provide only 204lbs of reserve buoyancy to the boat.

If I were to make the compartments low, like a sitting platform, for half of each area and the part closest to the end go all the way to the deck level of the boat, those volumes would provide a respectable 350lbs of reserve buoyancy to the boat.  That amount of reserve would allow the boat, if swamped, to ride high enough in the water to support a person's weight while bailing out the boat.

Whether the hull shape would be stable enough to keep from rolling over is beyond me until I get it in the water, but I do know the boat will have plenty of emergency buoyancy plus a seat for a passenger in the stern, plus a seat for the rower at the front, when the passenger's weight needs the rower to move forward to balance.

Next stage is to mix up some epoxy and start gluing the boat together.

On with the picture show!

Going 3-D

The last 9 days have seen some progress in the building of this Oracle. We have had mild weather to help the epoxy harden.  The warm days have encouraged long hours drawing and cutting out the five panels that make up the boat.  Two side panels.  Two bilge panels and the bottom of the boat too.

Once the panels had been cut out, they were turned over and the seam between the plywood sheets was coated with epoxy and fiberglass cloth.

The boat is given its shape by the interior bulkheads. Those bulkheads were drawn, cut out and edged with strips of wood to act as stiffeners and to hold screws necessary to keep the side panels in place

Today I took the gluing table apart and left the two saw horses to hold the bottom of the hull. The tops of the saw horses are level and parallel.  I was able to attach the two side panels to the interior bulkheads with drywall screws.

Finally Underway!

A new boat design has been chosen.  I am going to build Jim Michalak's Oracle!

Two weeks ago, I ordered the plans through Duckworks and they arrived yesterday.  A week ago, I ordered the marine plywood from our local Windsor Plywood and was happy to have that arrive Thursday.  The last sunny day in the forecast!

I was so excited to open the boat plans!  The entire plan, with all the drawings, is on one large sheet!  Instructions and useful information on a dozen or so printed pages.

I've had Jim Michalak's boat building book from the library for a few days and have read through that too.  Everything seems to make sense.

Late afternoon, I went out to the boatshed, and armed with a forecast for very mild temperatures, I began the project.  Officially Began!

The beginning steps have me epoxying two sheets of plywood together, end to end.  Epoxy bonding a strip of fibreglass to that joint.  The epoxy and cloth went on nicely as I've been keeping the epoxy warm, inside the house.  To help the epoxy cure, I built a little tunnel and heated it overnight.  This morning, most of the joint is nearly ready.  I moved the tent and heater and expect the last tacky section to be set by lunchtime.

Once the epoxy is cured, I can draw on the panels for the sides and bottom.

So exciting!

Various Boat Designs

In a more optimistic note than yesterday, Here are some alternate rowing boat plans, all requiring minimal plywood and epoxy.  These designs are from Jim Michalak, a noted designer.

Sport Dory:  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/sportdory/index.htm

Takes three sheets of quarter inch ply.  Epoxy only in the seams.  Water protection with good paint.

Oracle: http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/oracle/index.htm

Takes 4 sheets of quarter inch ply.  Again, epoxy and glass cloth only in the seams.

This next boat is from Welsford.  Bigger than the above boats, but still smaller than my rowing/sailing boat.  Likely takes 4 sheets of ply, but still epoxy in only the seams, so likely the same amount as the above boats:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/seagull/index.htm

Use these examples to show either that Butler's approach is not the only way to protect a boat from the weather, or switch designers to one who is confident enough in his design that he doesn't specify another two gallons of epoxy.

Options

Hey Alan,  First thing is for me to tell you how sorry and embarrassed I am for shooting you an estimate based on last year's prices and the skimpy amount of information available on the Butler Boat site.

The plans have arrived for the Pacific Troller Dory.  I have read them over a few times and I am ready to go out and build the construction frame.

This morning, I received the plans for building Joansa, a rowing boat designed by John Welsford.  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/joansa/index.htm

I have finally been able to make up a more reasonable estimate for the construction of the Butler Pacific Gunning Dory.  I am afraid, due to the astounding amount of epoxy specified in the plans, and the increase in epoxy prices, my estimate earlier is far away from reality.

At this point, I need to apologize for my extremely optimistic guess on the amount of materials that would be needed, plus my costs were based on the boat I built a year ago.

After reading the materials list for both boats, the Joansa is going to cost less than the Butler Dory.  The biggest reason for the price difference is the amount of epoxy specified to build the Butler Dory.  The dory is built with no frame to support it, using instead, the changing angles of plywood plus the epoxy welds for rigidity.  Welsford's dory has wood frames and fir stringers at all the plywood joins, eliminating much of the epoxy.  Butler specifies his boats to be give three coats of epoxy, inside and out.  Welsford swears by house paint instead.

Here is the basic materials list from each boat plan.

BUTLER DORY

Plywood - Marine grade- 6mm- 2sheets    =$160
                                         4mm - 2sheets    =$130

Epoxy 3 gallons  (including taxes)             =$636

Fibreglass cloth                                          =$55

Epoxy fillers                                                =$20

Fir gunnels etc.                                            =$25

Oar sockets and oar locks      = $40 to $80 depending on design

Oars (from Barkley Sound Oars)   straight = $120
                                                  spoon blade= $250
Taxes not included above                             =  $60

Total  is around                                              $1246 to $1380, depending on                                                                chosen hardware and oars


WELSFORD JOANSA

Plywood - Marine Grade  6mm 2 sheets      = $160
                                           4mm 2 sheets      = $130
Epoxy - 1 1/2 gallons                                     = $318

Fibreglass cloth                                               =$20

Epoxy fillers                                                   =$20

Fir gunnels and stringers                                =$30

Oar sockets and oar locks      = $40 to $80 depending on design

Oars (from Barkley Sound Oars)   straight = $120
                                                  spoon blade= $250
Taxes not included above                             =  $60

Total is around                                              $900 to 1050, depending on chosen hardware and oars.


I just realized I have not added anything for the paint.  My last boat took, maybe, a gallon of good house paint.

Further information that needs to be considered:  The Welsford Joansa is a beautiful boat!  The designer is the man who designed my earliest boat, The Walkabout.  The Joansa is a more time consuming build, so the time factor needs to be considered too.

The Butler dory could be built less expensively, by applying house paint for weather protection, but certainly not reducing the amount of structural fiberglass and epoxy.   Savings in time would be considerable.  Savings in costs?  Maybe a couple of hundred bucks?

I guess you need to make another decision, based on more realistic information.  If this stretches the budget too much at this time, I understand and again apologize for shooting from the hip.   If you want the Butler Pacific dory one way or the other, I will build one.  If you want the Welsford Joansa I will build that one instead.

First Post Nov. 13/2014

The last few winters, I have had a building project.  I need something to keep me occupied during the months when it is too cold to cycle, sail and row.  Last winter, I built the wonderful First Mate rowing/sailing dinghy, designed by Ross Lillistone.  I love that boat and don't want to build a boat to replace it.   I take the First Mate rowing a couple of days a week and love rowing that boat.  

So, here I am, in the middle of November about to build a dedicated rowing boat.  For a couple of reasons.  First is that I am going stir-crazy.  Second is that I want a rowing boat that will easily carry a passenger and can launch from a cart, like a canoe or kayak.  Then, I can row in the estuary near my house.  Then I can take someone along now and again.  If the boat happens to be faster and no less sea-worthy?  All to the good.  

I happened upon Paul Butler's Pacific Troller Dory design and fell in love with the lines and marveled at the simple building technique.  It promises to be capable.  Previous builders have posted glowing reports!

Then I unearthed a suggestion I'd made to my friend about finding a suitable design for a rowing boat to build for his wife

.  

I think I have the perfect plan!  I shall build Karen's boat this winter.  I now have something to keep me occupied.  Because it is a late start, yet needs to be done in time for her birthday, there is some sense of urgency!  Some added incentive for delaying the mundane household chores as this boat needs to be done!  

Once the boat is done and I have rowed it over my customary course, I shall be able to decide if it will fill the needs I mentioned.  

Feels like a win/win situation! 

The attached photos are taken from

 http://www.butlerprojects.com/boats/pacific/index.htm

Pictures submitted by previous builder.